A groundbreaking shift in textile production is emerging from the laboratories of Chalmers University of Technology, promising to revolutionize how we source raw materials for clothing by tapping into agricultural waste. Traditionally, the fashion industry has relied heavily on cotton—a water-intensive crop—or wood-based cellulose fibers, which pose challenges both in terms of sustainability and resource exploitation. However, recent research spearheaded by a team of innovative scientists reveals a promising alternative: extracting high-quality cellulose pulp from wheat and oat residues. This method not only promises to alleviate environmental pressures but also capitalizes on otherwise discarded agricultural by-products.
The environmental footprint of cotton cultivation has long been a cause for concern, given its extensive water usage and chemical inputs. Cellulose, a natural polymer derived from plants, offers a powerful alternative for textile fibers and has predominantly been sourced from wood pulp. This conventional approach, while established, involves intensive processing and raises concerns about deforestation and biodiversity loss. The Chalmers research group’s novel approach centers around dissolving pulp production from agricultural waste, specifically targeting oat husks and wheat straw, which are abundant and currently underutilized residues in Sweden’s agrarian sectors.
In their experimental study, the researchers meticulously processed various agricultural by-products, including potato pulp and sugar beet pulp, alongside oat husks and wheat straw, to determine their viability for textile-grade cellulose pulp. The results indicated that oat husks and wheat straw stand out as optimal raw materials capable of yielding high-purity dissolving pulp. Dissolving pulp is a specialized cellulose product with elevated purity necessary for producing regenerated fibers such as viscose and lyocell, widely used in sustainable textiles.
Assistant Professor Diana Bernin of Chalmers’ Department of Chemistry and Chemical Engineering emphasizes the significance of these findings. She explains that cellulose fibers derived from agricultural waste circumvent many drawbacks associated with cotton and wood-based fibers. The streamlined pulping process devised by the team reduces chemical consumption, eliminates the need for complex mechanical pretreatments such as chipping and debarking required in wood pulp processing, and adds value to agricultural residues that are traditionally overlooked or discarded.
Key to this process is the use of soda pulping, a method where raw materials are boiled in sodium hydroxide solution ("lye"), facilitating the breakdown of lignin and hemicellulose components while preserving cellulose integrity. This technique is inherently more environmentally benign than other chemical methods because lye does not introduce toxic substances into ecosystems. Notably, soda pulping is ineffective on wood fibers due to their complex structural matrices, making wheat straw and oat husks ideal candidates given their different plant anatomies.
The implications of adopting agricultural waste cellulose fibers extend beyond sustainability. By integrating these residues into the pulp-and-paper industry’s production lines — industries with well-established infrastructure and technological expertise — there is a practical pathway to scaling up the production of textile-grade cellulose without necessitating entirely new manufacturing facilities. This approach could rapidly accelerate the availability of sustainable textile fibers at a commercial scale, aiding in the global move toward circular economies within the fashion sector.
The study further anticipates the potential expansion of feedstock materials usable in this process. Bernin points towards ongoing international collaborations demonstrating successful dissolving pulp production from press-cake—a semi-solid residual material—from field grass. These findings indicate that the method may be broadly applicable across a variety of agricultural residues, opening a landscape of raw material sources previously untapped in fiber production.
Adding to the momentum, continued research from the team has already progressed from pulp production towards fiber creation. Early unpublished findings highlight the feasibility of converting these novel dissolving pulps into textile fibers of sufficient quality and performance, marking an essential step from laboratory innovation toward industrial application. This transition underscores the practical viability and market readiness of these materials, which could transform how textiles are sourced and manufactured.
The interdisciplinary collaboration underlying this advancement draws together expertise from academia and industry. Alongside Chalmers University, Tree To Textile — an innovation company specializing in sustainable fiber materials — and the IVL Swedish Environmental Research Institute have contributed, supported by Bioinnovation’s industrial graduate school Resource-Smart Processes. This integrative approach ensures that the research is grounded not only in scientific rigor but also in commercial and environmental realities.
Joanna Wojtasz, lead author of the study and currently a researcher at Tree To Textile, reflects on the broader significance: “There is immense untapped potential in agricultural waste streams. Harnessing these cellulose resources responsibly could reshape our textile industry and dramatically reduce its environmental footprint.” Her statement underlines the transformative opportunity agricultural residues offer to decouple textile fiber production from environmentally harmful practices.
This breakthrough aligns with global efforts to develop bio-based and circular textile supply chains. As climate change and resource depletion pressures intensify, innovations like dissolving pulp from agricultural waste offer a pragmatic solution—one that leverages existing resources more efficiently while minimizing ecological impacts. The scalability and reduced chemical usage position this technology as a sustainable alternative with significant promise for future adoption worldwide.
In summary, the study published in RSC Sustainability details a pioneering process to produce dissolving pulp suitable for textiles from wheat straw and oat husks. By employing a soda pulping method that minimizes chemical input and leverages underutilized agricultural residues, the research charts a sustainable pathway away from water-intensive cotton and wood-based fibers. The work embodies a crucial stride in the quest for environmentally responsible textile manufacturing, offering hope for a future where fashion is both innovative and sustainable.
Subject of Research: Not applicable
Article Title: Producing dissolving pulp from agricultural waste
News Publication Date: 21-Mar-2025
Web References:
- https://publish.ne.cision.com/l/meynlgare/doi.org/10.1039/D4SU00534A
- https://treetotextile.com/
- https://www.bioinnovation.se/en
- https://www.ivl.se
References:
- Wojtasz, J., Bernin, D., et al., "Producing dissolving pulp from agricultural waste," RSC Sustainability, 2025, DOI: 10.1039/D4SU00534A
Image Credits: Chalmers University of Technology | Per Friberg
Keywords: cellulose fibers, dissolving pulp, agricultural waste, sustainability, soda pulping, textile manufacturing, wheat straw, oat husks, circular economy, bio-based textiles
