In a groundbreaking development in the realm of cosmetics, a team of researchers has unveiled a novel solution for enhancing the appearance of foundation makeup designed for individuals with darker skin tones. The existing spectrum of available foundations tends to fall short, with many products producing an unflattering grayish cast upon application. This issue has long been a point of frustration for consumers seeking the perfect shade that truly complements their skin. The innovative addition of ultramarine blue as a cosmetic color additive aims to address these concerns, introducing warmth and depth that are often lacking in current formulations.
Gabriella Baki, an associate professor of pharmaceutics at the University of Toledo, spearheads the research, which will be presented at the upcoming spring meeting of the American Chemical Society (ACS). Scheduled for March 23-27, 2025, the ACS Spring 2025 meeting will showcase over 12,000 presentations on various scientific topics. Baki’s work is poised to challenge long-standing conventions in foundation makeup, particularly for darker shades that have historically relied heavily on black iron oxide.
Baki’s team includes Raihaanah Zaahirah Safee, a graduate student who previously worked in Baki’s lab, and who emphasizes the historical context surrounding the formulation of cosmetic foundations. Traditionally, these cosmetics have been developed using a limited palette of colorants—specifically red, yellow, and black iron oxides, accompanied by white pigments like titanium dioxide or zinc oxide. However, the reliance on high concentrations of black iron oxide in darker shades can result in an undesirable gray appearance that fails to resonate with the needs of darker-skinned consumers.
In exploring possible solutions, the researchers looked to color theory and the potential of blue pigments to broaden the color spectrum of foundations. Inspired by discussions of ultramarine blue—a pigment historically utilized in art—the team conducted a series of experiments to evaluate its effects in both loose powders and stick formulations. By varying the ratios of black and blue pigments and selecting appropriate white pigments, the researchers aimed to create a harmonious color palette that reflects a wider array of skin tones.
Early investigations focused on the impact of ultramarine blue in loose powder foundations, where the team developed a formulation for the foundation base, complemented by an 11-pigment range representing both darker and lighter skin tones. The results indicated that the incorporation of ultramarine blue significantly enhanced color performance, creating a more flattering look for individuals with deeper skin tones. Utilizing a high-precision spectrophotometer, the researchers quantified color differences with precision, while visual assessments on both white and black backgrounds, as well as human participants, reaffirmed their findings.
One of the significant revelations was the understanding that while ultramarine blue could effectively reduce the gray cast associated with excess black iron oxide, a modest amount of black may still be necessary to achieve the desired depth in color formulation. The findings suggest that ultramarine blue not only improves the appearance of darker foundations but also introduces a warmer hue, demonstrating its potential for reshaping the landscape of cosmetic color additives.
On the heels of their success with loose powders, the research team shifted its attention to stick foundations, which presented a unique set of challenges. The formulation process for stick foundations incorporates liquid moisturizers and emollients, adding complexity that necessitated careful considerations of pigment dispersion and stability. The researchers dedicated numerous efforts to align the pigment ratios used in their loose powder formulations, seeking to produce stick foundations that maintained consistent color throughout.
Despite initial setbacks related to uniformity, the team achieved a breakthrough by refining the formulation for stick foundations. By reapplying known pigment ratios and adhering to rigorous testing metrics, they ultimately confirmed the viability of ultramarine blue in these products as well, showcasing similar color enhancements as seen in loose powders. This comprehensive approach to understanding and applying the blue pigment points to exciting possibilities for future foundation development.
Looking ahead, the research group’s ambitions extend to exploring the role of ultramarine blue in liquid foundations. As the most utilized foundation type among consumers, developing liquid products that incorporate this innovative pigment poses unique challenges due to the fundamental differences in ingredient behaviors when mixing oil and water. Nevertheless, Baki and her team remain undeterred, eager to tackle this next stage of formulation development.
While there are currently no plans to commercialize the foundations they’ve developed, Baki envisions this research as a foundational step for the industry. The findings have considerable implications in a market that increasingly values diversity and inclusivity in cosmetic formulations. Ultimately, Baki hopes to inspire cosmetic chemists and manufacturers to adopt ultramarine blue in their products, broadening the horizons of foundation color options available to consumers.
Zaahirah Safee’s personal narrative adds depth to the significance of this research. Sharing her own struggles with finding suitable makeup products during her introduction to cosmetics, she highlights the need for change in the industry. As an aspiring cosmetic chemist, her goal is to break down barriers in product formulation and advocate for a wider array of options that reflect diverse beauty standards.
The research, currently unfunded by external sources, is an embodiment of a collaborative and innovative spirit within the University of Toledo’s research community. As work continues to unfold, the implications of these findings could redefine the landscape of cosmetic formulations, ultimately leading to make-up solutions that cater to an inclusive audience.
As this research gains momentum, its trajectory within the cosmetic industry may influence upcoming trends related to color additives and formulations that prioritize the unique needs of consumers. The integration of ultramarine blue as a viable option for creating richer and more dynamic foundation colors could spark a seismic shift in how cosmetic brands approach the development of their products.
While the researchers remain focused on their scientific inquiries during the ACS Spring 2025 event, the enthusiasm surrounding their findings may attract attention from both the personal care industry and consumers. As the conversation about inclusive beauty continues to grow, the potential for this breakthrough research and its applications can set new benchmarks for future product offerings.
With greater representation of diverse skin tones becoming increasingly essential in the cosmetics sector, it is likely that the findings from this research will resonate far beyond the confines of academia. The hope is that consumers will be empowered by an evolving cosmetic landscape that genuinely reflects their beauty and identity.
Subject of Research: The effect of ultramarine blue on the color of powder and stick foundations for darker skin tones.
Article Title: Effect of ultramarine blue on the color of powder and stick foundations
News Publication Date: March 26, 2025
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Image Credits: Gabriella Baki
