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Home Science News Chemistry

Michigan Startup Innovates Clothing Labels to Enhance Recycling and Brand Authentication

November 5, 2025
in Chemistry
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In a groundbreaking development poised to revolutionize the textile and fashion industries, researchers at the University of Michigan have engineered photonic fibers capable of weaving invisible, yet highly sophisticated barcodes directly into fabric. This innovative technology promises to make clothing and other textiles significantly easier to recycle, authenticate, and track throughout their lifecycle. With nearly 92 million tons of textiles discarded annually in the United States alone, less than 15% are currently recycled, largely due to the inability to efficiently sort and verify garment composition. The newly introduced photonic fiber technology addresses this critical challenge by embedding unique optical signatures directly into the threads of textiles.

At the core of this advancement is Fibarcode, a University of Michigan startup company that has received approximately $1.6 million in funding from the National Science Foundation’s Small Business Technology Transfer Fast-Track grant. This support will enable the transition of photonic fiber technology from the laboratory to real-world commercial application. The technology’s transformative potential is immense: unlike traditional tags or labels, which are often removed or degraded over a garment’s lifetime, these photonic barcodes are inseparable from the fabric itself and resistant to wear, making the traceability and verification of textiles feasible at any point in their existence.

The photonic fibers leverage the physical principles of light absorption and refraction through precisely engineered multiple layers of acrylic and polycarbonate. Although both materials are transparent when isolated, when combined in controlled thicknesses and sequences, they manipulate light in a way that certain wavelengths from the ultraviolet through to the infrared spectrum are uniquely absorbed and bent. This manipulation creates striking optical effects reminiscent of natural phenomena such as the iridescence observed on butterfly wings. By controlling the layering and thickness of these polymers, each fiber can be tailored to create a signature optical code that is difficult to replicate or counterfeit.

These optical codes act much like traditional barcodes but offer exponentially more complexity and security. Each photonic fiber’s unique absorption spectrum can be read using specialized scanners, which decode the specific wavelengths absorbed and refracted by the fibers. This encoding mechanism enables the establishment of an immutable audit trail that can definitively identify the garment’s fabric composition, place and method of manufacture, and verify the authenticity of branding and designer labels. Furthermore, integrating multiple distinct photonic fiber codes in a single fabric exponentially increases the code space, allowing for an astounding number of unique identifiers.

The integration of photonic fiber tagging directly into textiles opens exciting possibilities beyond recycling. The ability to authenticate garments at the fiber level could play a pivotal role in combating the rampant counterfeiting that plagues the fashion industry, which costs billions in lost revenue annually. Additionally, repair specialists and recycling plants could rapidly sort textiles not only by fiber type but also by origin—enabling more targeted and effective material recovery processes. This separation could drastically improve material reuse efficiency and reduce strain on environmental resources.

Fibarcode’s pilot program, supported by the NSF grant, aims to collaborate with a broad array of industry stakeholders including manufacturers, retailers, and recycling facilities. By fostering partnerships across the supply chain, the company hopes to expedite the adoption of its technology and standardize its use globally. Accelerating industry-wide acceptance will be key to achieving a circular economy model for textiles, where waste is minimized, and materials are perpetually cycled through new production.

The genesis of this technology traces back to the laboratory efforts of Brian Iezzi, a doctoral graduate of the University of Michigan’s Department of Materials Science and Engineering, who co-invented the photonic fiber technique. Under the guidance of Professor Max Shtein, a faculty member specializing in materials science and chemical engineering, the research was initially supported through earlier NSF-funded projects. Together, they translated fundamental optical physics and polymer engineering concepts into a scalable technology with potent commercial applications.

Iezzi and Shtein also benefited from entrepreneurial education and mentorship provided by the National Science Foundation Innovation Corps Hub for the Great Lakes region, a program led by the University of Michigan designed to help academics bridge the gap between research and real-world impact. This support enabled them to refine their business model, navigate intellectual property challenges, and develop a go-to-market strategy for their photonic fiber innovation. Concurrently, Fibarcode secured patent protection with the assistance of the University of Michigan’s Innovation Partnerships, cementing a foundation for long-term growth and investment.

The potential societal and environmental impacts of integrating photonic fiber barcodes into textile supply chains are profound. By enhancing traceability and recyclability, this technology could dramatically reduce the ecological footprint of fashion and textile industries, two sectors notorious for waste, pollution, and unethical labor practices. Consumers could also gain confidence in the provenance and sustainability of their clothing, and brands would have an unprecedented tool to both assure quality and protect intellectual property.

Moreover, the photonic fiber technology is inherently scalable and versatile. Beyond fashion, technical textiles used in automotive interiors, aerospace, defense, and even medical implants might be embedded with similar optical identifiers. Such integration could streamline quality control, facilitate end-of-life recovery, and enhance regulatory compliance across diverse sectors. The ability to invisibly encode complex data directly into materials represents a significant leap forward in smart manufacturing and sustainable product lifecycle management.

Looking ahead, Fibarcode is actively seeking additional collaborators and partners to broaden the reach of its technology. By engaging recycling centers, industry leaders, and governmental bodies, the company aims to champion a systemic shift towards more transparent and circular textile economies. With growing global regulatory pressures and consumer demand for sustainable products, photonic fiber embedded fabrics could soon become a standard feature in garments worldwide.

As this emerging technology transitions from pilot to commercial maturity, it presents a compelling case study in how advanced materials science can intersect with digital innovation to solve some of society’s most pressing resource challenges. The work of Iezzi, Shtein, and their team exemplifies the power of interdisciplinary research, entrepreneurial vision, and strategic support from institutions like the National Science Foundation to propel bold ideas into impactful realities.

Through photonic fiber barcodes woven invisibly within textiles, a future of easily verifiable, highly recyclable, and authentically traceable fabrics is on the horizon. This technological leap not only addresses longstanding inefficiencies in textile sorting and counterfeit control but also represents a key step towards more sustainable consumption and production paradigms. With initial funding secured and pilot programs underway, the path to widespread adoption grows clearer, signaling a profound transformation in how we understand and manage the life of the clothes we wear.

Subject of Research: Photonic Fiber Technology for Textile Identification and Recycling
Article Title: Invisible Optical Barcodes Woven into Fabric: Transforming Textile Recycling and Authentication
News Publication Date: 2024
Web References:
– https://www.fibarcode.com/
– https://docs.google.com/document/d/1G8hWwiE-3H74oAz_LqfdgsZEmEnHPlPJ-5mCV-eCkbo/edit?tab=t.0
– https://mse.engin.umich.edu/people/mshtein/processing
– https://greatlakesicorps.org/

Keywords: Photonics, Applied Optics, Materials Science, Textile Engineering, Sustainable Textiles, Optical Identification, Recycling Technology, Anti-Counterfeiting, Polymer Science, Circular Economy

Tags: Advanced recycling technologiesclothing brand authenticationeco-friendly textile solutionsfashion industry sustainability initiativesFibarcode startup developmentgarment composition verificationinvisible barcodes in fabricMichigan textile recycling innovationNational Science Foundation fundingphotonic fiber technologysustainable fashion solutionstextile lifecycle tracking
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