The material is made from mycelium, the branching network of microscopic fibers that forms the main body of a fungus beneath the familiar mushroom cap. These fibers are composed largely of structural biopolymers and naturally grow by consuming nutrients in their surroundings. Because mycelium can form dense, interconnected networks, scientists have increasingly explored it as a renewable feedstock for packaging, insulation and leather-like materials. The challenge has been producing enough material quickly and consistently for commercial applications.

Traditional mycelium textiles are typically manufactured by allowing fungi to grow across flat trays. As the organism spreads, its thread-like hyphae bind together into a coherent sheet that can be harvested and processed. Although this method can create attractive materials, it is difficult to scale efficiently: growth takes place over large surface areas, production is relatively slow and the final properties can be difficult to control. The Finnish team pursued a different strategy by growing the fungus in liquid fermentation tanks.

The researchers cultivated the filamentous fungus Trichoderma reesei in nutrient-rich liquid inside vessels similar to those used in industrial brewing. Instead of forming a single continuous sheet, the fungus developed into a thick, fiber-rich pulp suspended throughout the tank. This approach separates biological growth from sheet formation, allowing the fungal biomass to be produced in large vessels and shaped later using conventional manufacturing equipment. In principle, that could make mycelium textiles more compatible with existing biotechnology and paper-processing infrastructure.

After harvesting the fungal pulp, the researchers washed it and blended it with sorbitol and cellulose. Sorbitol is a sugar alcohol widely used in foods, pharmaceuticals and cosmetics, and it can act as a plasticizing agent by helping polymeric networks move more freely. That flexibility is important because untreated fungal fibers can be brittle when dried. Cellulose, the primary structural material in plant cell walls, was added to reinforce the network and improve mechanical performance. The resulting mixture was spread into thin layers and dried, producing a nonwoven fabric with a leather-like appearance and feel.

The pulp-based process also gave the scientists greater control over the material’s design. They could modify thickness, incorporate color and texture, and laminate the mycelium layer onto cotton fabrics. Such control is crucial for products that must meet different performance requirements: a soft wallet, a structured handbag and a flexible shoe upper may all require distinct combinations of stiffness, strength and surface finish. The ability to adjust the formulation could also allow manufacturers to produce materials with more consistent properties than those obtained from uncontrolled fungal growth.

To determine whether the concept could move beyond small laboratory samples, the team adapted a roller-based system resembling equipment used in paper manufacturing. The process continuously produced sheets approximately 20 centimeters wide and 8 meters long. Researchers then cut and stitched the material into a prototype accessory bag, demonstrating that the textile could be handled with familiar fabrication techniques rather than requiring an entirely new production system. The prototype’s black coloration showed that the material could also be dyed for consumer products.

Mechanical testing produced one of the most striking results. The rolled mycelium material reached tensile strengths comparable to traditional leather, indicating that it could withstand substantial pulling forces before breaking. Tensile strength alone does not determine whether a fabric is suitable for everyday use, however. Resistance to tearing, abrasion, moisture and repeated flexing will also be essential for handbags and other products exposed to constant handling. The researchers acknowledge that tear resistance remains a limitation that must be addressed before the material can become a widely available commercial alternative.

The material’s end-of-life behavior could provide another advantage over plastic-based vegan leather. In laboratory tests, it broke down in water within 28 days, while under industrial composting conditions it completely disintegrated in approximately six weeks. These results suggest that the fungal textile is more biologically degradable than petroleum-derived polyurethane or PVC alternatives, although real-world decomposition would depend on product design, dyes, coatings, stitching and any added fabrics. The research team says the manufacturing process is promising because it combines scalable fungal fermentation with equipment already used in biotechnology and printing. If durability can be improved without sacrificing compostability, a handbag grown from fungal fibers could become more than a viral curiosity: it could represent a practical step toward lower-impact materials for the fashion industry.

Subject of Research: Mycelium-based, leather-like textile produced through liquid fermentation and continuous roll processing

Article Title: Your next handbag could start with mushrooms

News Publication Date: 24-Jun-2026

Web References: https://doi.org/10.1021/acsabm.6c00471

References: ACS Applied Bio Materials, DOI: 10.1021/acsabm.6c00471

Image Credits: Adapted from ACS Applied Bio Materials 2026, DOI: 10.1021/acsabm.6c00471

Keywords: mycelium, fungi, mushroom materials, sustainable fashion, leather alternatives, biodegradable textiles, fermentation, cellulose, biomaterials, compostable materials, handbag, circular economy

The research team, including Naher, Al Shahriar Khan, and Sumiya, sought to investigate the extraction of oil from Pangas fish waste—a by-product typically discarded during the fish processing industry. Pangas fish, or Pangasius, is a popular species in aquaculture, particularly in Southeast Asia, and the processing of this fish represents a substantial amount of waste, which when managed improperly, causes both economic and environmental issues. The objective was clear: transform what is usually considered refuse into a valuable commodity.

To achieve their goal, the researchers extracted oil from the waste generated during the processing of Pangas fish. The extraction process involved carefully selecting the fish parts with high oil content, promoting eco-friendly methodologies to minimize solvent usage. This sustainable approach not only ensures the preservation of the environment but also maximizes the yield from raw materials that are generally underutilized. The extracted fish oil was then analyzed for its properties and potential as a leather fatliquor.

The findings showed that the oil extracted from Pangas fish waste possesses characteristics similar to conventional fatliquors used in leather production. Fatliquors are crucial in the leather-making process as they enhance the flexibility, softness, and overall quality of the leather. The Pangas fish oil showed promising results in these areas, suggesting that it could serve as an effective alternative while also being biodegradable, unlike many synthetic fatliquors, which can be harmful to the environment.

Choosing a sustainable route to leather production is paramount in today’s context, where environmental considerations are front and center. The leather industry has been scrutinized for its environmental footprint, and the search for more sustainable practices has become crucial. By utilizing fish waste, the researchers embark on a mission that aligns with global sustainability goals. They showcase how renewable resources can feed into traditional industries, reducing reliance on non-renewable materials and harmful chemicals.

Moreover, the impact of using such fish-based oils extends beyond just environmental benefits. It can boost local economies, particularly in regions heavily reliant on aquaculture. The transformation of fish waste into a commercially viable product could create jobs and support small businesses engaged in both fish farming and leather production. This potential for economic upliftment cannot be overlooked, especially in areas where employment opportunities are limited.

The innovative application of fish waste oil is also consistent with the growing trend of upcycling, where waste materials are repurposed to create high-value products. This approach foster creativity in industries traditionally reliant on resource-intensive processes. It broadens the horizon for further research where the utilization of different by-products from various sources could provide similar benefits.

The research into Pangas fish waste oil and its application as a leather fatliquor not only emphasizes the prospects of sustainable materials but also sparks curiosity within the scientific community. The next steps in this research could involve large-scale tests and collaborations with leather manufacturers to assess feasibility and scalability. Understanding how the fish oil performs in different leather types and conditions can provide indispensable data for future production practices that prioritize both quality and sustainability.

Furthermore, the success of this research can lead to a ripple effect within and beyond the leather industry. It opens avenues for other sectors to explore sustainable substitutes for conventional materials that have adverse environmental impacts. The quest for innovation in sustainability can be evidenced in many fields, but this study takes a unique angle by providing tangible solutions derived from waste—transforming a burden into an asset.

The results of this study signal a shift in how industries view waste materials. Rather than being categorized solely as refuse, waste is being re-evaluated for its potential contributions. This mindset shift is crucial for future advancements as it encourages industries to think outside of conventional waste management practices. By embracing the philosophy of ‘waste not, want not’, businesses can become champions of sustainability while still meeting consumer demands for quality products.

Overall, the work presented by Naher and his team is both inspiring and necessary in the context of contemporary environmental challenges. By utilizing a natural, renewable resource like Pangas fish waste oil, they not only highlight the possibilities of eco-friendly production methods but also remind us of the substantial impact waste management can have on sustainability. It emphasizes the need for ongoing research, collaboration, and innovative thinking to achieve the goal of a circular economy—where resources are perpetually reused and repurposed.

As our understanding of materials science evolves, so too must our approach to sustainability. The implications of this study extend beyond simply producing a new leather fatliquor; they represent a paradigm shift in how we consider the materials and products we use in our daily lives. By supporting research like this, we take meaningful strides towards more sustainable, responsible practices across various industries.

In conclusion, the extraction and application of Pangas fish waste oil as a sustainable leather fatliquor by Naher, Al Shahriar Khan, Sumiya, and their team reflect critical advancements in integrating sustainability into traditional industries. It serves as an exemplary model for future research endeavors, illustrating how we can innovate and transform waste products into sustainable solutions. The significance of such work cannot be overstated as we navigate an ever-changing environment and strive towards a more sustainable future in leather manufacturing and beyond.

Subject of Research: Extraction and application of Pangas fish waste oil as a sustainable leather fatliquor.

Article Title: Extraction and application of Pangas fish waste oil as a sustainable leather fatliquor.

Article References:

Naher, U.H.B., Al Shahriar Khan, M., Sumiya et al. Extraction and application of Pangas fish waste oil as a sustainable leather fatliquor.
Environ Sci Pollut Res (2025). https://doi.org/10.1007/s11356-025-37297-0

Image Credits: AI Generated

DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s11356-025-37297-0

Keywords: Sustainable leather production, Pangas fish waste, Fatliquor, Environmental impact, Upcycling, Leather industry sustainability, Renewable resources.